If you’re dreaming of a raw, off-the-beaten-path experience in Gilgit-Baltistan, the journey from Jaglot on the Skardu Road toward Kutwal Lake in Haramosh Valley will stay with you long after you return. This travel story and guide comes from a recent trek that began at Sasi on Jaglot Skardu Road and ended at a high meadow beside snow-topped peaks a tough jeep track followed by a demanding hike, but one that reveals spectacular valleys, local villages, and the unforgettable Kutwal Lake.
Why Kutwal Lake and Haramosh Valley should be on your list
Kutwal Lake sits in Haramosh Valley at a height of 3500m, framed by dramatic peaks such as Haramosh and Laila, and accessible through a combination of jeep tracks and foot trails that cut through arid rock, green meadows, and scattered summer villages. This place is for travelers who value landscape and solitude more than comfort; it’s ideal for trekking, camping, mountain photography, and experiencing summer life in remote Gilgit-Baltistan. The area’s raw beauty, glacier views, and tiny villages make it a standout destination for anyone exploring northern Pakistan.
Beginning the Adventure: Where Our Trek into Haramosh Valley Starts
Sassi on Jaglot Skardu Road and the jeep journey
Our group gathered at Sassi on Jaglot Skardu Road, a practical last stop before the remote stretches. The jeep track is honestly tough bumpy, dusty, and sometimes unbearable in strong sunlight, and what used to be drivable sections can become impassable after heavy rains or landslides. Expect long, jolting rides, occasional stops at small restaurants for light breakfasts, and the need to travel light. Many travelers choose a jeep for the first leg because frequent landslides on the Jaglot-Skardu route mean this is often the last hotel or stop before longer stretches. Prepare for a shared jeep, a mix of fellow travelers, and basic porters or guides who know the route.
The walking portion: heat, rocks, and green relief
From the jeep drop-off, villages like Dasu, Barchi, and points beyond the trail become a walker’s test: rocks, hot exposed sections, and long stretches where the sun drains your energy. Early sections may have been jeep tracks in the past; after landslides, they become footpaths, adding hours to the trek. Expect to pass through arid scree, then later find shaded, greener sections and meadows where the air cools and pine or birch forests offer relief. The first day can stretch into the evening; in one trip, we began late and reached Kutwal past 8:30 pm after nearly eight hours of travel, so plan your pace and breaks carefully.
Villages, people, and the rhythm of summer life
Small summer villages dot the valley and are often occupied only for the warmer months; locals speak Shina and maintain small fields for self-use. You’ll pass villages perched along edges with astounding views of Haramosh and glaciers below. Local hospitality is genuine: small hotels that function as waypoints, people collecting firewood, and families cultivating apricots, apples, pomegranates and cherries in nearby orchards. These interactions are highlights of the journey and offer insight into how people live seasonally in high valleys.
The Last Push to Kutwal: A Race Against Sunlight
The final stretch of the journey took place under evening skies as soft golden light settled over Haramosh. The trail opened into wide meadows where snow-capped peaks dominated the skyline. Every turn revealed a postcard view dramatic, untouched, and silent.
At 8:50 pm, completely drained but overjoyed, we finally reached Kutwal. The trek that was said to be six hours had taken us nearly eight due to the heat and a late start. But every ounce of exhaustion melted away the moment we sat on the grass and inhaled the cool mountain breeze.
Morning Magic: First Glimpse of Kutwal Lake
The next morning at 5:30 am, we walked toward Kutwal Lake, unaware of the magic waiting ahead. As the first rays of sunlight touched the water, the lake turned into a giant mirror reflecting legendary peaks Haramosh Peak, Haramosh Peak II, and the iconic Laila Peak.
This is not just a lake. It is a natural amphitheater surrounded by walls of ice and stone.
The calm water held perfect reflections, the breeze danced softly across the meadows, and the silence felt sacred.
Watching the sunrise here felt like witnessing a miracle.
The Only Hotel in Kutwal: Comfort in the Middle of Nowhere
Kutwal Valley has only one hotel, a simple yet charming wooden lodge run entirely by locals. It is not luxurious, but it is cozy, warm, welcoming and surrounded by scenery that hotels elsewhere would dream of.
Green meadows flow around the hotel like a blanket. Crystal-clear streams cut through the land. Behind everything, glaciers and 10,000-foot peaks stand like ancient guards.
The food is homemade, delicious, and comforting: fresh parathas, eggs, and hot tea. The hospitality is pure mountain-style: humble, warm, and full of heart.
A Perfect Place to Camp: Meadows That Steal Your Heart
Just a short walk away from the hotel lies a vast, open meadow, one of the best camping spots in all of Gilgit-Baltistan. Setting a tent here gives you uninterrupted views of the lake, the peaks, the sunrise, and the soft musical sound of nearby water streams.
The idea of spending a night under these skies, with stars blazing over Haramosh, makes the entire journey worthwhile.
The Return via Ezcaray: A Scenic Trail Through Glaciers & Forests
On our way back, we chose the Ezcaray route, which turned out to be remarkably scenic. The trail passed by a glacier covered in rocks, forests filled with centuries-old trees, and small villages where children played freely in open fields.
We met travelers who lost their way near the glacier, a reminder that trekking in Haramosh requires caution and ideally a guide. The path is beautiful but confusing, especially for beginners.
Ezcaray offered glacier streams, cool winds, and the kind of natural music only mountains can produce. The return journey took five hours, much easier and more enjoyable than the ascent through Gouro.
Back to Sassi & Onward to Minapin: Ending One Chapter, Opening Another
Returning to Sassi felt like completing a sacred circle. After resting briefly, we continued our road journey toward Nagar, stopping near the iconic Rakaposhi View Point before reaching our next night’s stay, the beautiful Roomy Yurts at Osho Thang Hotel, a luxury tent experience unlike anything in Pakistan.
Soft beds, clean interiors, warm lighting, and the smell of fresh northern food filled the air a perfect ending after days of trekking in rugged mountains.
Practical travel tips and health considerations
Carry sun protection and plenty of water; the hot exposed sections are surprisingly draining and can cause dehydration or upset stomachs if you’re not careful. Eat light before the hike if your stomach is sensitive, and bring snacks that are easy on digestion dry fruits, simple biscuits and juices are staples on the trail. Share luggage with your group and hire local porters or a guide if you have heavy bags; they are invaluable for timing, local knowledge, and lifting spirits when the trail gets hard. The best travel window is the summer months when the valley is accessible and villages are inhabited; outside that window, heavy snow makes travel impractical.
Costs, logistics, and group travel
Most travelers hire a jeep, split costs with other groups, and pay separately for a guide and porters. The final totals vary depending on vehicle availability and how far the jeep can actually reach before the trailhead. If landslides or weather shorten jeep access, plan for additional walking time and possibly higher porter costs. Travel in a small group of trusted companions makes the journey easier, both for splitting expenses and for morale when the trail gets long. Always inform your hotel and jeep driver of your intended schedule, and carry a basic first-aid kit for common issues like dehydration, blisters, or stomach upset.
Final Thoughts: Haramosh Valley — A Place That Stays With You
Kutwal Lake and Haramosh Valley are not just beautiful, they are unforgettable.
The journey challenges your strength, tests your patience, and rewards you with some of the most spectacular landscapes in Pakistan.
This valley offers everything nature lovers dream of: glaciers, green meadows, waterfalls, forests, peaceful villages, crystal lakes, and towering peaks.
If you are planning your next adventure, let Haramosh be your destination.
It is raw. It is real. And it is breathtaking.
