We had arrived at Chilam Chowki the previous evening, our first checkpoint on what promised to be an unforgettable journey. Chilam Chowki isn’t exactly a tourist spot — it’s a transit point for travelers heading to Deosai or Minimarg. The area is simple, functional, and surrounded by jaw-dropping scenery. We stayed at Ghazi Guest House, one of the few comfortable places in the area. Another similar place up the road could also host travelers, but the charm of the valley itself is the real attraction.
Our destination today was Minimarg, a place that had long been on my bucket list. I had attempted to reach it in 2020, but pandemic restrictions blocked the path. This time, everything was open, and we had the proper passes. I was traveling with my friends Ali and Yasir. Ali, experiencing this journey for the first time, was already in awe of the landscapes, while Yasir, ever the videographer, was ready to document every moment.
Chilam Chowki: The Gateway to Adventure
As we arrived at Chilam Chowki, the checkpoint was busy. Soldiers checked our passes with precision. One of our friends had all passes ready, making the process smooth. Within fifteen minutes, everything was cleared, and we were ready to start. The officers were courteous and professional — a reminder that traveling in remote regions demands respect for the rules and those enforcing them.
I whispered a quick prayer before we mounted our motorcycles: “Bismillah. May this journey be safe, memorable, and full of adventure.” The engines roared to life, and the road ahead immediately caught our attention. It wound through mountains, streams glimmered beside us, and clouds drifted over snow-capped peaks. Each turn revealed a new breathtaking view.
“This is incredible,” I told Ali. “Look at how the road winds through the mountains!”
Ali laughed, his excitement evident. “I’m in love with this valley already.”
Ascending Burzil Top
The climb toward Burzil Top was gradual at first but soon became challenging. The terrain was rocky, uneven, and punctuated by water crossings from glacial streams. The path demanded focus — it was clear why only motorcycles above 150cc or 4×4 vehicles were allowed.
The temperature dropped as we gained altitude. My summer gloves barely protected my hands from the biting cold, yet the scenery was awe-inspiring. Snow-clad peaks, glaciers shimmering in the sun, and endless mountain ridges made every shiver worth it.
We stopped frequently to admire the views and take photos. Each turn, each patch of snow, each curve of the road seemed more spectacular than the last. At times, I thought about switching off the camera just to savor the moment, but the urge to document this adventure always pulled me back.
Finally, we reached Burzil Top, standing at over 13,000 feet. The view from here was humbling. The Deosai plains stretched out in the distance, bathed in sunlight, while snow-tipped mountains formed a protective ring around the valley. We registered briefly at the Army check post before beginning our descent into the lush valley below.
The Adventure to Minimarg
Descending from Burzil Top was an entirely different experience. The road twisted through meadows dotted with snow patches and rushing streams. Water crossings tested our skill and patience, with icy currents and jagged stones making each passage a challenge.
“Lord, have mercy!” I muttered as my tires wobbled over rocks.
The thrill of crossing each stream made the cold bearable. Some sections took us close to riverbanks; others lifted us onto higher ground. Occasionally, dense forest gave way to open meadows, creating a landscape that seemed to change every few meters.
Along the way, we encountered local villagers. Small wooden huts dotted the valley, and children waved enthusiastically from their doorsteps. Despite the growing number of tourists, the area felt pristine and serene.
Domail: The Heart of Minimarg
After descending from the snow-clad peaks of Burzil Top, the landscape gradually opened up to reveal Domail, the central valley of Minimarg. The moment we entered, it felt like we had stepped into another world — a realm where nature reigns supreme and time slows down. Lush green meadows stretched out in every direction, dotted with wildflowers swaying gently in the cool breeze. Streams trickled through the valley, their crystal-clear waters glinting in the morning sun. The mountains that had towered over us on the way up now formed a stunning backdrop, their snow-capped peaks piercing the sky.
Domail is small yet surprisingly vibrant. The valley houses several modest villages, with wooden and stone huts scattered across its expanse. Locals go about their daily routines with quiet efficiency, tending to cattle or working the fields. Despite the simplicity of life here, there’s a warmth in every smile and wave. Children ran alongside the road as we rode past, laughing and waving, their joy as contagious as the beauty surrounding us.
Our arrival in Domail also brought a small challenge. Yesterday, while capturing videos by the riverbank, we had misplaced one of our memory cards — containing crucial footage of our journey. Without it, a significant part of our adventure would have been lost. With determination, we traced our path back about ten kilometers to the spot by the river where we had stopped. For almost 45 minutes, we searched tirelessly, feeling every second of suspense and hope.
Alhamdulillah, we finally found the memory card, a small yet vital victory that allowed our story to continue. Exhausted but relieved, we returned to Domail, ready to explore its heart.
The valley’s charm lies not just in its natural beauty, but in its diverse landscapes. Some sections are wide open, revealing meadows that seem to stretch endlessly. Other areas are bordered by dense forests, creating pockets of mystery and tranquility. Rivers and streams cross the paths, creating small water crossings that challenge the motorcycles and add to the thrill. Zigzagging roads wind through the valley, sometimes hugging the mountainsides, sometimes dipping into lush plains, offering a constant interplay between adventure and serenity.
Tourism here is still emerging. While day-trippers from Skardu occasionally arrive, the valley retains its pristine beauty. The air is fresh, the environment clean, and the sense of untouched wilderness is palpable. Yet, with more visitors each year, the local economy is beginning to benefit — small guesthouses, guided tours, and camping facilities are becoming part of everyday life in the valley. It’s a delicate balance between maintaining the natural charm and embracing sustainable tourism.
As we rode through Domail, I reflected on this. “This place has everything — adventure, beauty, serenity, and a culture that feels authentic,” I told Ali. “I can see why people rave about Minimarg. It’s unlike anywhere else.”
The valley also offered glimpses of life along the Line of Control. Domail sits relatively close to the border, and while tourists need special passes, locals move freely. This proximity adds a layer of intrigue to the journey — a reminder that every corner of this valley has a story, both natural and human.
We paused several times to capture the scenery, watch the rivers, and take in the views of Rainbow Lake and the surrounding meadows. The lake itself is a gem, with pristine waters reflecting the towering peaks and the soft green slopes that cradle it. It’s not just the lake that mesmerizes; the entire valley, with its undulating meadows, forests, and streams, feels like a living painting.
By the time we set up for a short break, I realized that Domail is more than a stopover — it is the soul of Minimarg. Every traveler who comes here carries away memories of vast green fields, icy rivers, snow-topped mountains, and the simple warmth of the local people. It’s a valley that invites you to slow down, breathe deeply, and absorb every moment.
Here in Domail, the journey isn’t just about reaching a destination; it’s about experiencing every curve, every stream, every breath of fresh mountain air. The adventure is as much in the riding and the exploration as it is in the quiet moments spent simply soaking in the grandeur of nature.
As we prepared to continue toward Rainbow Lake for our overnight stay, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. Domail had not only welcomed us with its beauty but had also reminded us why we travel — to witness, to learn, and to feel fully alive amidst landscapes that humble and inspire.
Water Crossings and Zigzag Roads
From Domail, the route back toward Burzil Top and eventually Deosai was a thrilling mix of zigzag roads, streams, and changing terrain. Water crossings varied from small trickles to larger streams. The rocks beneath caused motorcycles to sway, demanding concentration and patience. Yet, the adventure was exhilarating.
Sometimes, we rode alongside rivers, at other times through open meadows or dense forest. The constant shift in landscape made the ride feel like a never-ending adventure.
Pink wildflowers decorated the mountainsides, glaciers peeked from hidden corners, and sunlight danced over snow patches. Every twist revealed a new perspective. Occasionally, we met day-trippers from Skardu, who left early in the morning and reached Minimarg by noon. Their presence reminded us that this valley was gradually attracting more visitors, but its tranquility remained largely intact.
Camping by Rainbow Lake
As we approached Rainbow Lake, the sheer beauty of the place took our breath away. Nestled in the heart of the valley, the lake’s waters shimmered with hues of turquoise and emerald, reflecting the towering mountains surrounding it. From a distance, it looked like a painting — a serene, untouched masterpiece carved by nature itself. The air was crisp and fragrant, carrying hints of pine from the nearby trees and the fresh scent of flowing streams.
We were here for an overnight stay, and the camping spot beside the lake was perfect. The ground was flat and grassy, ideal for pitching tents. A gentle stream ran alongside, providing a constant melody of flowing water — the kind that soothes the soul after a long day of riding. I imagined waking up to the sound of this stream, the mist rising from the lake, and the first rays of sunlight touching the mountains.
Because the area is under Army supervision, personal tents were not allowed. We were assigned spacious pre-arranged tents that could comfortably accommodate three to four people. While I had secretly hoped to use my own tent, slightly away from the camp, the provided tents were surprisingly comfortable. It was a good compromise — safety and convenience over solitude.
The sun was beginning to dip behind the peaks, casting a golden glow over the valley. The temperature was dropping rapidly, a stark reminder that we were at high altitude. I pulled out my sleeping bag and thickened my layers, knowing the night would be cold. Yasir, ever the practical one, was already preparing his camera gear, eager to capture the magical colors of dusk reflecting on the lake. Ali wandered toward the shore, mesmerized by the clarity of the water.
Dinner was served shortly after we set up camp. A hearty mutton karahi filled our stomachs, accompanied by warm bread and simple sides. The taste of food after a day of riding through snow, rivers, and zigzag roads is incomparable. Every bite seemed to warm me from the inside out. We ate slowly, savoring both the flavors and the atmosphere. The sound of the stream, the cool breeze, and the soft chatter of fellow campers created a cozy, almost magical environment.
As night fell, the lake mirrored the sky, and the first stars began to appear. It was a sky full of countless tiny points of light, more than I had ever seen in one place. The mountains stood as silent guardians around us, and the campfire flickered, casting shadows that danced across the tents. I sat quietly for a while, feeling the serenity of the valley seep into me. The cold was intense, but the warmth of the moment, the camaraderie, and the sheer beauty made it more than bearable.
Camping at Rainbow Lake was more than just staying overnight; it was a pause, a chance to absorb nature’s grandeur, to reflect on the day’s adventure, and to recharge for the journey ahead. As I lay in my sleeping bag, listening to the stream and the whispers of the wind through the grass, I realized that moments like these are why we travel — to experience the untouched, the extraordinary, and the magical corners of our world.
Reflections on the Journey
Traveling from Chilam Chowki to Minimarg and Domail is more than a simple ride. It’s a test of endurance, skill, and appreciation for nature. The region’s beauty varies from snow-capped peaks to lush valleys, flowing rivers to open plains. The villages are small, life is simple, and the local people are warm and accommodating.
Tourism is beginning to change the region, bringing economic benefits while challenging the preservation of its pristine environment. It’s essential for travelers to respect the land, keep it clean, and ensure future generations can enjoy the same beauty.
Looking Ahead to Deosai
Tomorrow, our plan is to cross the Deosai plains on our way to Skardu. At over 4,500 meters, the weather will be unpredictable and cold, but that’s part of the allure. Every day brings new lessons in patience, respect for nature, and the thrill of exploration.
For those planning to visit: secure your passes, carry warm gear, use appropriate vehicles, and immerse yourself fully in the journey. Minimarg, Domail, and the surrounding regions offer an experience that is rare, unforgettable, and profoundly humbling.
As I sit by the campfire, reflecting on the day, gratitude fills me — for the mountains, the rivers, the people, and my companions. This journey is not just a vlog or a ride; it’s an adventure that will stay with me forever.
