Morning in Sharan Forest
Our journey had begun the night before, when we arrived in Balakot after a long day on the motorcycle. The ride had been exhausting but exhilarating, leaving us too tired to wake up early in the morning. As we slowly opened our eyes to the sound of rain pattering against our tent, we realized that nature had set the tone for another thrilling day ahead.
Sleeping in a tent to the sound of rain is a unique experience—therapeutic, grounding, and strangely invigorating. Despite the arrival of several tourists around 2 a.m., which made the site a little noisy, we managed to sleep comfortably, wrapped in the protective embrace of our tents. The forest was alive with the morning drizzle, dense and ancient trees forming a canopy that filtered the soft light of dawn.
The weather, however, posed a challenge. Heavy rains had soaked our tents, and we had to pack up our equipment carefully to avoid carrying wet gear for the day’s ride. My waterproof cover for the sleeping bag came in handy, and every item of luggage was organized with care. Backup for our data was the first order of business; even in such wild and remote places, ensuring that footage, photos, and important files are safe is critical. The road ahead would demand our full attention, leaving little room for mistakes.
Ali, my trusted companion for this tour, prepared tea for us, as the rain lightly drizzled down around us. The sound of water from nearby springs added a calming soundtrack to the morning. Conversations with fellow travelers and locals revealed the openness and hospitality of the people here—Sharan Forest wasn’t just a tourist destination but a living, breathing ecosystem with communities that had learned to coexist with the dense wilderness.
Preparing for the Off-Road Challenge
As we readied ourselves to leave Sharan Forest, the anxiety of tackling slippery off-road tracks after heavy rain was palpable. The road from Balakot to Paras, which we had planned to traverse, is known for its challenges. While it offered some of the most scenic rides in Pakistan, it also demanded focus, patience, and skill. The forest, though stunning, tested our abilities right from the start. Gravel, loose rocks, and steep inclines made us rethink every maneuver, and at one point, my rear wheel hit an awkward spot, nearly causing a spill. Thankfully, Ali’s guidance kept us safe.
Our route passed through small villages, where locals greeted us warmly despite the challenging weather. Bella Sacha, a quaint village along the path, showcased traditional houses nestled amidst greenery, adding a cultural dimension to our adventure. Every turn of the road revealed a new waterfall, a small stream, or a hidden meadow—reminders of the untamed beauty that Northern Pakistan holds.
The Thrill of Dense Forests
Emerging from Sharan Forest was a visual feast. Low clouds hovered above, wrapping the trees in mist and enhancing the ethereal beauty of the surroundings. Riding through such dense woods, with sunlight filtering through the branches and the sound of rainwater flowing nearby, was an unparalleled experience. I had to concentrate fully on the road, but the peace of the forest seeped into my spirit with every kilometer.
Stopping briefly at Chinar Resort, we took a chance to refresh and enjoy light refreshments before continuing. The location was tranquil and perfect for families looking for a short retreat, though off-road motorcycling might not be ideal for casual travelers. Club sandwiches, hot tea, and fries fueled us for the final stretch to Paras, where we intended to camp for the night.
Navigating Slippery Trails and Hidden Springs
The rain had barely eased as we packed up our tents, leaving Sharan Forest behind. Despite the wet conditions, there was a sense of excitement in the air. The forest, with its ancient trees and winding paths, had left an indelible impression, but the adventure was far from over. Ali led the way, his experience on these off-road tracks providing reassurance as we navigated slippery slopes and loose gravel.
The road was treacherous in parts, with mud and water pooling in unexpected spots. My motorcycle, Rangeeli, had to carefully maneuver around rocks and puddles, and I could feel the adrenaline pumping through my veins. Every curve demanded attention; one misstep could send the bike sliding down the incline. Yet, even amidst the caution, there was immense joy. Riding through this raw, untamed landscape, with rivers rushing beside us and the scent of wet earth in the air, was an experience like no other.
Small villages dotted the route. Locals greeted us warmly as we passed, curious about the travelers on motorcycles braving the rainy conditions. Children waved, and elders smiled, offering prayers for our safe journey. At Bella Sacha, a tiny village with modest homes and farmland, we stopped briefly to stretch and take in the surroundings. Water from nearby springs ran in gentle streams along the road, a natural soundtrack to our journey. It reminded us that this was not just a tourist path but a living, breathing community intertwined with the mountains.
Lessons in Patience and Riding Skills
The off-road challenge tested more than just our physical endurance. Riding through wet terrain demanded patience, precision, and coordination. A few times, my tent bag shifted, and the tripod caused some imbalance, forcing me to stop and readjust. At one point, the registration plate on my motorcycle was damaged slightly, a reminder that the adventure always comes with its minor trials. These moments, however, were part of the thrill. Overcoming them added a sense of accomplishment and strengthened the bond between us riders.
Ali’s presence made a significant difference. Having a trusted partner allowed me to focus on the ride and the surroundings without constant worry. The forest echoed with the soft sound of motorcycles, mingled with the natural symphony of birds, flowing water, and the rustling leaves. Riding here, you couldn’t help but feel connected to the environment—each twist of the road revealing hidden beauty and a fresh challenge.
A Break at Chinar Resort
After navigating the trickiest sections of the track, we arrived at Chinar Resort, a serene retreat nestled amidst the forest. The resort’s quiet ambiance provided a welcome respite. We ordered club sandwiches, hot tea, and fries, enjoying a brief pause before continuing. The location was perfect for families seeking a peaceful getaway, though we knew that off-road motorcycling was not suited for casual tourists here. The hour spent at Chinar allowed us to relax, recharge, and prepare for the remaining kilometers toward our camping site at Paras.
From here, the terrain promised to shift. Loose rocks and steep inclines lay ahead, with rain having left the ground slippery and unpredictable. But the anticipation of reaching Paras and setting up our campsite kept our spirits high. Every kilometer in Northern Pakistan was a lesson in riding skill, patience, and appreciation for nature’s raw beauty.
Camping Amidst Nature
Finally, we reached our intended camping spot near Paras. The site was perfect: a dense forest on one side, water springs flowing gently nearby, and enough space to pitch our tents comfortably. Setting up the tents was an adventure in itself. I used my new MSR Hubba Hubba tent—a lightweight, two-person tent designed to withstand harsh weather. The setup required attention, especially with the rain still threatening, but soon our tents stood firm, ready to protect us through the night.
My sleeping mat and bag, along with Ali’s setup, were arranged carefully. Waterproof covers ensured that our belongings remained dry, while our jackets doubled as pillows for extra comfort. As night fell, the forest came alive with the sounds of rain, running water, and the occasional rustle of wildlife. Sitting beside the tent, sipping hot tea, and taking in the serene surroundings was a humbling experience. It reminded me why we travel—not just for adventure, but for the moments of connection with nature that stay with you forever.
Dinner was a simple, hearty affair: daal mash with freshly baked roti. The taste seemed amplified by the setting—the fresh mountain air, the sound of nearby streams, and the quiet of the forest. We paid PKR 400 for our meal, a small price for such an immersive experience.
By the time we settled into our tents, the forest was dark and quiet, illuminated only by the soft glow of the remaining daylight and our camping lanterns. As I lay down, I reflected on the day’s journey. Every slippery path, every muddy track, and every small obstacle had contributed to a rich and memorable adventure. The thrill of riding through the forest, combined with the peacefulness of camping in such an untouched environment, was a rare and cherished experience.
Riding Through Mist and Waterfalls: Sharan to Manshi Top
The morning mist still clung to the trees as we broke camp in Sharan Forest. Overnight, the rain had soaked the forest floor, leaving a thin layer of moisture on the leaves and rocks. Yet, there was an unmatched freshness in the air—a mixture of rain, pine, and earth—that only these northern forests can offer. Our plan was to head toward Manshi Top, a journey that promised both breathtaking views and challenging terrain.
The first kilometers out of Sharan were deceptively tricky. Slippery mud, small puddles, and scattered rocks required constant attention. Ali led the way, expertly navigating the uneven path, while I followed close behind, my senses heightened. Riding through these sections was a lesson in patience and focus; speed was not our friend here. Every curve, every slight incline demanded careful balance. And yet, even in these tense moments, the beauty around us could not be ignored. Sunlight began piercing through the clouds, illuminating patches of the forest and creating a mesmerizing play of light and shadow.
Along the way, we encountered small streams and water springs bubbling from the mountainsides. Each spring added to the serenity, and we paused occasionally to admire the view or refill our bottles. Villagers waved from their homes perched on the slopes, and children shyly peeked from behind the walls. It was humbling to witness life thriving in these remote corners, harmonizing with nature rather than overpowering it.
Conquering Off-Road Challenges
The road to Manshi Top was not for the faint-hearted. Loose gravel, steep inclines, and sudden mud patches kept us on high alert. My overstuffed tent bag, still damp from the previous night’s rain, shifted slightly, reminding me of the importance of proper packing for off-road rides. The tripod had to be repositioned, and bungee cords tightened to ensure nothing came loose. Even a minor lapse in concentration could have ended with the bike skidding dangerously close to the edges.
At one particularly steep stretch, the rear wheel slipped unexpectedly. I had to stop, reposition the bike, and push it carefully with Ali’s assistance. It was exhausting work, but every challenge overcame added to the sense of achievement. These moments highlighted the essence of northern Pakistan’s adventure riding—raw, unpredictable, and immensely rewarding.
Manshi Top: A Glimpse of Heaven
Reaching Manshi Top was like stepping into another world. Low-hanging clouds surrounded us, and the cool mountain breeze was invigorating. From this vantage point, we could see the valleys stretching far below, rivers glinting in the sunlight, and mountains layered in green and gold. Drone shots captured the magnitude of the landscape, revealing the immensity of the forest and the winding roads that had brought us here.
For anyone visiting Manshi Top, it is a reminder that the journey is as spectacular as the destination. The ride, with its twists, turns, and unexpected obstacles, adds depth to the experience. Stopping here, taking a deep breath, and simply absorbing the view was a reward in itself.
Descending Toward Naran: Rivers and Rapids
After the peak, our journey continued toward Naran. The descent was both thrilling and challenging. The road ran alongside rushing rivers formed by recent rains and melting glaciers. The sound of water rushing over rocks accompanied our ride, providing a dynamic backdrop to the journey. At times, the roads were narrow and damaged, remnants of erosion from constant water flow. Careful maneuvering was essential to avoid potholes and slippery patches.
Along the riverside, waterfalls cascaded down rocky cliffs, their force and clarity mesmerizing. We stopped multiple times to capture these scenes, both with cameras and in our memory. The sheer variety of water features, from gentle streams to powerful falls, was astonishing. These moments reinforced why northern Pakistan is a paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike.
Naran Bazaar: A Brief Respite
Eventually, we reached Naran, one of the most popular tourist destinations in the region. The bustling bazaar was a stark contrast to the serenity of the mountains. Here, tourists mingled with locals, street vendors offered fresh produce and snacks, and the aroma of local cuisine filled the air. We decided on a short break, enjoying matka tea—a traditional, clay-pot brewed tea—while soaking in the lively atmosphere.
Though it was crowded, Naran offered essential services and a chance to recharge before continuing the journey. The combination of modern convenience and mountain charm was unique, reflecting how tourism has evolved in these northern areas.
Babusar Pass: The Final Ascent
Leaving Naran, we headed toward Batakundi, with Babusar Pass looming ahead. This section is legendary among motorcyclists and adventure travelers. The pass combines steep inclines, hairpin bends, and dramatic scenery that makes every second unforgettable. The sunlight reflected off glaciers and peaks, painting the mountains in gold and silver hues.
Even with experience, this route demanded respect. Wet roads, loose gravel, and sudden drops kept our concentration razor-sharp. Yet, the thrill of riding these roads, with nature unfolding in every direction, was unparalleled. The rivers, valleys, and forests seemed to merge seamlessly into one grand panorama, offering a sense of freedom that only adventure travel can provide.
Arrival in Batakundi: Comfort After Adventure
By late evening, we reached Batakundi. After hours of riding through challenging terrain, the arrival was a relief. We secured a comfortable room at Roomy Mountain Top Resort, where warm showers and hot water awaited us. The room charges, PKR 20,000 with tax, reflected the premium location and peak tourist season. Despite the price, the comfort was worth it after a day of intense riding.
Dinner was a feast brought by the manager, Shehzad—chicken karahi, garlic naan, and a variety of dishes too many to name. While we didn’t consume it all, the meal was satisfying and provided the energy needed for the next day’s adventures.
